2008 Domaine Didier Dagueneau Pouilly-Fume “Silex”
More highly sought after wine…
2008 Domaine Didier Dagueneau Pouilly-Fumé “Silex”
From the Importer:
There are few winemakers in history as bullish or brazen, roguish or renegade, as the Loire Valley’s Didier Dagueneau. High-standards, incredible risk-taking, impeccable attention to detail, zealous allegiance to his terroir, and a willingness to take a stand against convention made this once-professional motorcycle sidecar racer the stuff of legends. Born in the Nièvre, where Burgundy meets the Loire Valley, Didier was the fourth generation in a family of winegrowers. In 1982, just after returning to his native village of Saint Andelain just outside of Pouilly-sur-Loire, Didier set his new career as vigneron in motion, and in typical form, there were no half-measures. Influenced by wine legend Henri Jayer of Burgundy, his grandfather Louis Dagueneau, André Chabanne of Pouilly-sur-Loire, enologist Denis Dubourdieux of Bordeaux, and Professor Renaud of the Pasteur Institut in Paris, Didier quickly found his own style. By fusing modern winemaking with ultra-traditional methods of vineyard management, he was able to realize the ultimate expression of terroir and technique.
His passion for motorcycle racing moved to international dog-sled racing, for which he won both the European and World Championships. However dare-devilish in both winemaking and in life, Didier’s untimely death in a plane crash in 2008 shook the wine community to its core. Fortunately for all who love Didier’s wines, his oldest son, Louis-Benjamin, is now steering the domaine with the audacity, passion and talent that many critics and wine-lovers agree equal those of his father. Didier’s were no small shoes to fill, but Louis-Benjamin, now with several harvests under his belt, has more than proven to be up to the task. In fact, he and his sister, Charlotte, have brought new energy to an enterprise that was already considered at the top of its game. While the solar panels on the winery roof are an immediate tipoff that the younger Dagueneaus are reaching for new heights, tasting the 2008, 2009 and 2010 vintages is proof that they are on a path that their father would have approved. – Beaune Imports
93 points Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate “Ripe pear and white peach along with sage, and fusil, chalky notes of crushed stone rise from the glass of Dagueneau 2008 Blanc Fume de Pouilly Silex. On paper, this reminds one of 1996 (as Benjamin Dagueneau mentions immediately after I make a note of the fact), boasting – assuming you consider that word appropriate to the circumstances – 14.2% alcohol and well over 6 grams acidity. Lime zest and huckleberry notes serve for the sort of bitter concentration one noted in the corresponding Buisson Renard, but here that is imbedded in a far lusher, riper context; accompanied by a more refined texture; and without betraying its alcohol in any heat or roughness. “This will be a great keeper,” predicts Benjamin Dagueneau, and I would certainly not be surprised if it were worth re-visiting for more than a dozen years. Tasting the 1996 along side (a wine whose analysis reveals negligibly less alcohol and acid than the 2008) one is struck by the malt and caramel notes it has developed, but I really ascribe that to the more obvious application of oak in those days (which I noted when, as it happens, I was able to taste this 1996 in barrel) rather than simply to bottle age.”
93 points Stephen Tanzer’s International Wine Cellar “Greenish yellow. A kaleidoscopic nose combines lime zest, intense minerality, spicecake and white flowers. Wonderfully concentrated yet sharply focused, offering a suave blend of bracing citrus and mineral flavors and outstanding richness Strikingly deep and pure wine, finishing with strong mineral cut and superb lift and persistence.”